Brian Beyke

Square One Coffee - Tana Toraja Sulawesi - Mistobox - January 2014

Brian Beyke

I think Sumatran coffees put me off to exploring Indonesian coffees.  Before getting into specialty coffee I loved Sumatra.  Dark, rich, smooth. However Sumatran coffee in the specialty coffee world tend to have…less favorable notes to my pallet.  However this isn’t a Sumatra, it’s Sulawesi.  Sulawesi, despite not being a profile I thought I would like, is quickly becoming one of my favorite regions to explore.  Let’s get into the first offering in this month’s Mistobox: Tana Toraja Sulawesi from Square One Coffee.  

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Details:

Roaster: Square One Coffee

Origin: Sulawesi, Pango Pango Perindingan, Tana Toraja 

Process: Fully washed

Varieties: Heirloom Typica Varieties 

Elevation: 1,400 - 1,600m

Brew Method:

V60 | 34g © to 453g (w) | 3:10 total time | 200 degrees

The dry aroma has hints of hung tobacco and autumn leaves, like I’m back in my grandpa’s barn on the farm.

The wet aroma still has the tobacco, with maybe a little almond or cherry as well.  

The first sips I thought I got lemon candy - but maybe I’m wrong.  Low acidity through most of the cup.  

Earthy at first - thinking wet soil, malty, but also an underlying caramel flavor, but the earthiness isn’t a deterrent.  It has a dry mouthfeel, but it still seems like there is a lot going on.  

As it cools I almost feel as if it leaves a slightly smokey aftertaste in my mouth.  It still has a fruitied aroma that I just don’t find in the taste of the cup.

After a few minutes I came back to the cup and wow, what a change.

Still it now has some cherry fruit notes and a little bit of floral elements with a dry, sweet, earthy finish.  To be quite honest, it reminds me a lot of KRAVE Black Cherry BBQ Jerky, which if you know me you’d know that isn’t a bad thing.  

As I really get to the end, the aftertaste is really interesting in this coffee.  It seems to bounce around like it is playing Pong with several flavors before dying off.  Very unique.

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Brew Method:

Kalita Wave | 50g © to 700g (w) | 4:30 total time | 200 degrees

Cherry aroma in the cup.  Very bold first hits in the mouth, undertones of fresh soil, earth, vegetal, fruit, and a bit of a dry finish.

It has a mid to back of the throat crispness, orange-like acidity.  Maltiness creeping in, maybe a little berry and a little chocolate.  It reminds me a bit of Whoppers with some Crunch Berries added in.  

Came back after a bit to the cup and it is fresh, clean, sweet, and an opening of floral begins.  Still crisp in the same spot but a little more reserved.  Small amount of smokiness in the finish as well.

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It’s a really cool experience from beginning to end of the cup.  Actually, the changes in aroma and perceived taste adds to the mystery of the coffee.  With interesting twists and turns, the Sulawesi is a roller coaster coffee where you can see some of what is coming ahead, while some is left behind the next bend.  Take away, I would ride again and again.   

Rustic, low acidity, complex aftertaste

Co-host of the I Brew My Own Coffee Podcast and always has all the chocolate. I also love to play board games. Yea, let's go do that right now.