Brian Beyke

PT's Coffee - Lerida Estate, Panama - Craft Coffee - May 2014

Brian Beyke

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With the amount of offering’s I’ve had from PT’s Coffee here on the blog you’d think they were located across the street from me.  To my complete sadness, they aren’t.  This is now the fourth coffee from PT’s I’ve written about with a fifth that will be coming out soon.  I was lucky it was this offering that showed up in my box, as their other coffee in this month’s Craft, La Palma Y El Tucan, was one of those one’s previously visited.  I’ve been pleased with the journey I’ve been on in with PT’s from Bolivia to Colombia to El Salvador and now we have a new PT’s coffee to share with you, Lerida Estate, Panama.  

Lérida is one of the oldest estates in Panama. It was built in the early 1900’s by a German engineer named Tollef Monniche. His exportation of coffee back to Germany has been credited with establishing Panama as a source of high quality. His self-designed process for washing coffee is still followed by Lérida Estate to this day. Lérida Estate also benefits from being surrounded by great extensions of primary and secondary forests. These protect the water source needed to process the coffee while also creating one of the richest biodiversities in the region. The high altitude, ample rainfall, and soil quality found near the Barú volcano have created some of the best coffees in the world.

Details:

Roaster: PT’s Coffee

Producer: Lerida Estate

Origin: Boquete, Panama

Varietal: Caturra, Catuai

Elevation: 1,800 mas

Process: Washed

Brew Method:

V60 no stir | 14g © to 227g (w) | 1:50 total time | 197 degrees | 1.24 TDS | 18.65% Ext.
Aroma is quite inviting.  Warm spices and spiced nuts, with warm berry or perhaps cherry pastries to boot.
Diving into my first sips I am finding a quick juiciness that is followed by more drying hints of mint, wood, cocoa and nuts.  There is a floral quality along with a tiny ting of brisk citrus acidity noticeable in the finish.  Medium bodied, creamy and clean. 
It isn’t long into the cup when it really starts to flesh out.  Stone fruit sweetness begins to radiate, tangled with what seems like vanilla cream and still ending with a bit of a nutty finish, but now those stone fruit juices survive into the finish and give another squeeze of sweetness.  There is a bit of a weight to it in the mouth, yet met with honey-coated peach, plum, black cherry, and apricot sweetness.  The acidity starts to grow a bit more orange-like, getting a bit more bright and lingering and also showcases off those floral tones a little more too. 
The vanilla creaminess, now combined with those more intense stone fruit notes, now seems to taste like caramel or honey on the tongue.  The cup is delicate yet rich, with a complex and dense swirl of stone fruit also carrying some light and playful characteristics that linger.  It’s quite interesting, really, as it seems to transform mid sip between something I’d drink for comfort and something I’d drink for exploration.  
Complex, structured, rich, playful. 
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Brew Method:

Clever | 28g © to 420g (w) | 4:00 then drop | 197 degrees | 1.23 TDS |  19.51% Ext. (Immersion mode)
Warm citrus notes on the nose.  The cup is greeted with notes of chocolate covered raisins and peanuts, with caramel notes in the rear that aren’t exactly filling the body space.  It’s a pretty bright cup, but the acidity isn’t aggressive.  There seem to be darker fruits at play, subtle plum, apple, cranberry, but more apricot and I’m not quite sure what else.  I’d say the most prominent note is nuts, giving a slightly drying mouthfeel similar to wine or, strangely enough, sake.  The lingering finish does give way to hints vanilla cream and more juicy stone fruits. 
The cup now carried a candy-like aroma, almost like pixie sticks, with honey and stone fruit sweetness. 
Aaaaaaand there’s the shift I noticed in the v60.  The cup becomes a bit more swirly with sweetness, a little more juicy, and a little more playful, while clover honey seems to flow down the tongue and floral notes spring up around the sides.  The cup still feels rich, yet less complex than the previous make.  The acidity shows signs of being a little more orange-like, a little more intense but still comfortable and controlled. 
While the cup carries nutty notes (and even a bit of anise) long into the finish, there is also a caramel infused fudge flavor that stands out more.  
Chocolate, dried fruits, honey sweetness, nutty. 
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As the picture shows, I call this offering the “PT’s Party Platter.”  It offers you just about anything and everything- sweetness, juciness, savories, complexity and delicious fruits.  It just happened to go about them in such a way that entices, dazzles, flirts, catches you up in an engaging conversation, and in the very end makes you feel like you went home with an extremely rich man.  I love getting coffees that can be playful but stimulating at the same time, and this offering does just that.  Yes, it was another fabulous offering from PT’s, and a great showcasing of the Boquete region.  

Co-host of the I Brew My Own Coffee Podcast and always has all the chocolate. I also love to play board games. Yea, let's go do that right now.