Brian Beyke

Onyx Coffee Lab - Colombia Gustavo

Brian Beyke

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As I continue enjoying Onyx Coffee Lab’s Roaster’s Sample Box with you, we travel east from Central America into South America where we have a coffee from Lourdes, Antioquia Colombia.

Reaching out to Steve from Bodhi Leaf (the importer from which Onyx received their Colombia lot) I wasn’t able to find much information about the farm.  What I do know is that it comes from Pueblo Rico in Colombia, and this is a sole farm lot.  From the small but established farm Villa Sofia, Gustavo Lopez is an experimental but extremely careful farmer.  Gustavo had only 9 bags of this Colombia that stood out to Onyx out of 12-15 Colombian offerings so they bought the lot of them.  

Let’s dive into Onyx’s Colombia Gustavo.


Details:


Roaster: Onyx Coffee Lab

Origin: Lourdes, Antioquia, Colombia

Farm: Villa Sofia

Farm Owner: Gustavo de Jesus Lopez

Process: Washed

Varietal: Castillo 

Elevation: 1,600m

 

Brew Method:

Woodneck | 30g © to 476g (w) | 4:20 total time | 202 degrees| 1.48 TDS | 21.71% Ext.  

Dry aroma: nutty, fruits, and herbal

Initial sips are woodsy, musky, with lemon brightness and slight herbal/earth sweetness in the finish - bell pepper, squash, mushroom, lemongrass.  

A little nutty as it swishes around my mouth in a slightly drying but buttery mouthfeel.  Some fruit sweetness is there, like grape or melon (leans more toward melon).  There is a dry chocolate that appears in the finish as well. 

It’s a quite confusing but interesting cup.  I find these pops of sweetness, with bright passion fruit and melon notes then glides effortless into these really smooth nutty notes, and the finish (probably most perplexing) of chocolate malt and bell pepper.  The long finish, though, comes back to that initial sweetness as hints of vanilla wafer and cream soda seem to appear.

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Brew Method:

Gino Dripper | 24g © to 400g (w) | 0:30 bloom time | 1:40 pour time | 2:50 total time | 201 degrees | 1.46 TDS | 22.64% Ext. 

155 temp start drinking.

Very different cup from the first, yet similar TDS.  The body feels a bit more dense, with chocolate cake (slightly dry) notes residing in the lows.  The center is a little ambiguous - sweet and creamy yet hard to decipher some notes.  The highs definitely feel like Lemonhead candies in terms of brightness, but not as tart.  You lose the muskiness that the first cup had, but I still feel like I can sense some of those herbal/earthy elements in the rear.  Either way, it isn’t as prominent.  The main focus is a rich and sweet cup, seemingly more fragrant as it cools with syrupy seeming to show up on the tongue and slide down the sides.

It sweetens up as it cools more, with hints of cherry, melon, guava, passion fruit seems arriving in a syrupy body develops more along with some nuttiness and winey-like characteristics in the finish.

The coolest moments of the cup bring out some plum, peach, and cherry sweetness with a liquor-like finish.  Syrupy, soft, and sweet with just whiffs of spiced nuts to the finish with the last sips reminiscent of a syrupy Arnold Palmer.

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Brew Method:

V60 no stir | 14.4g © to 229g (w) | 3:25 total time | 202 degrees | 1.44 TDS | 21.28% Ext. (preferred method)

The aroma is enticing.  Whiffs of it remind me of a less intense mulled wine, with warm bread and sweetness present too.  

A pleasing intro to the cup.  I think it is a culmination of all body descriptors - there is a comfortable syrupiness to the body, but it ends each sip with juicy qualities before a slightly nutty finish.  It’s pretty balanced, medium bodied, swishing around the mouth incredibly buttery and creamy, with a sparkling lemon water-like acidity.  

I’d say this is the most complex method of them all with intricate layers of florals, beautifully balanced herbals, warm spices, and mixed fruits of green, red, and concord grapes, apple, melon, and stone fruit covered in honey.  If you check the aroma now, it has shifted to more juice-like notes of grape and stone fruits.  

While noticeable, the chocolate low notes play much more of a support in this method, and that is quite enjoyable.  It allows the cup to feel more airy and allow the fruit and honey to be the main focus in the cup, yet still finishing the cup like Lipton’s Green Tea with Lemon and the long finish carrying silky sweet concord grape notes.  

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 It is easy to see why Onyx chose this lot.  Not only is it an exceptional roast profile that seems to fit nicely into their lineup, but the flavors are exquisite.  This offering was wonderfully clean, and carried great aromatics.  It was crisp and refreshing initially, yet developed a nice syrupy body full of complexity.  I think that complexity is what makes it stand out to me, amidst other Colombian offerings I’ve had recently.  It carries enough richness to not seem like a light coffee, but between the stone fruit, tropical fruit, and grape/melon notes you’ll have enough to sift through no matter what level of drinker you are.  I will also point out, I preferred this coffee with a little age on it, so don’t feel pressured to guzzle it all up right away.  One thing is for sure: I have been thoroughly impressed by the offerings coming out of Colombia recently, especially this single lot production.  

There isn’t much left, so if you are feeling the urge… you’d better act fast.  

Co-host of the I Brew My Own Coffee Podcast and always has all the chocolate. I also love to play board games. Yea, let's go do that right now.