Brian Beyke

George Howell - Aranzazu Lot 057 Colombia

Brian Beyke

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In 2011 George Howell Coffee introduced Eugenio Cantillo’s fantastic micro lot of just 300 lbs. from his farm, Aranzazu.  Colombian farmers struggled in 2010 and 2011 to produce the sweet ethereally aromatic coffees they are capable of; the lack of sun amidst unrelenting rains was merciless.  Improvements in drying management and a slowly improving weather pattern have led to increasingly exciting results and in early 2012 we started getting spectacular coffees.  Eugenio’s coffee is composed of a complex web of Arabica varieties. The farm has mixed shade protecting steep slopes.  I was very anxious to get in on one of the limited roasts of Aranzazu Lot 057, Colombia.  

Details:

Roaster: George Howell Coffee 

Location: Huila, Colombia

Farm: Aranzazu

Producer: Eugenio Cantillo

Process: Washed

Varietal: San Bernardo, Bourbon, Typica, Caturra, San Pacho & Cantillo

Elevation: 5,500f

Brew Method:

V60 no stir | 34g © to 453g (w) | 3:25 total time | 202 degrees

Dry aroma is sweet and woodsy
First sips are unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.  Never had a coffee that deep right off the bat. 
Warm honey notes coat the sides of the mouth with a sweet and direct tropical acidity rear mouth followed by melted milk notes in an otherwise menthol-esque finish.  Long finish is a bit musky and woody, and completely manly. 
It seems to be brighter as I dig further, as more tropical notes seem to surface and there is a sugary sweetness, but yet the sips end as if just having a swig of Squirt.  Some nuttiness seems to be in the finish as well. 
Cooling more the brightness seems to have reached it’s peak and falls to the background of now a more juicy cup - cherry, plum, apple notes appear.  Cherry notes are the juiciest being introduced first to each sip, but the end reminds me of chocolate dipped strawberries. 
Deep, tropical, honey, cherry.
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Brew Method:

Woodneck | 34g © to 476g (w) | 4:30 total time | 202 degrees (preferred method)

Opening the cup are very creamy and sugary sweet notes with that deep, menthol-like finish. After a pineapple acidity greeting you find a medium bodied and very balanced cup with fruit high and mid notes mixing with chocolate mid and low notes. 
It grows thicker like honey, coating on the tongue and soooooo sweet. Complex tropical fruit note swim around what continues to grow into one of the sweetest coffee centers I can remember. There is a growing citrusy lemon-lime quality to it with deep notes of wood, fudge, and floral, with the long finish almost numbing the tongue. It is juicy, slightly tangy, and 100% enjoyable.  
Deep, tropical, coating, sweeeeeeeeeeet.

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Brew Method:

Clever | 34g © to 493g (w) | 3:35 then drop | 203 degrees 

Maple kissed hints to an otherwise thinner body than presented before, but it doesn’t come off as watery as much as it comes of as having more clarity. It has more juiciness off the bat, like a giant bear made of honey did a belly flop into a pool filled with pineapple slices and cherries, then while floating there began to eat a box of raisinettes. 
It continues to sweeten sugary sweet like frosted flakes as it cools, cherry, passion fruit, pineapple, plum, and grape notes widen amidst a citrusy and tropical elixir with rear mouth with a rustic finish of spice, tobacco, and wood. 
Coolest moments of the cup are basically like sugar daddy candies. 
Sweet, smooth, sugar daddy candies.
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Brew Method:

Bonmac | 24g © to 343g (w) | 3:10 total time | 202 degrees 

Begins very syrupy and sugary sweet. Tropical fruit notes swim immediately, like pineapple syrup.  bright, orange like acidity, with spiced fruit finishes. 
Cools similarly to other devices, but remains on the sweeter end with less rustic notes.  It continues to grow sweeter sugar notes with fruit flavors of cherry (specifically), plum, grape with a lessening acidity and less citrusy center. Relatively balanced with the exception of a pronounced emphasis on sweetness, and lingering finish carrying some chocolate notes.  
Ends on creamy and sweet tropical notes, with a cherry (or two) on top. 
Creamy, sweet, tropical, cherry. 
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Brew Method:

Kalita Wave | 40g © to 552g (w) | 3:45 total time | 201 degrees 

More rustic than other devices off the bat. Creamy and woodsy, with a deep finish. Caramel and tropical notes present but not as noticeable as other devices. Very balanced in the sense that the notes are all very mellow and comforting. 
As it cools it sweets some, but stays pretty consistent in flavor.  Acidity brightens the cup a bit, but isn’t too noticeable.  Cherry and apple are most notable, with that same sweetness brought out in other devices starting to show up the longer it sits. 
The cup continues to brighten up, but never in an attacking way, as it becomes honey sweet and slightly tea-like and fruity. Still comforting, still growing sweeter. Very delicate and pleasing. 
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 I thoroughly enjoyed this coffee.  Which is good, because I was waiting for the roast of it for over a month.  I know I said this about a few other Colombian coffee’s I’ve had recently, but this one really changed my views on coffee from the region.  The entire cup from beginning to end was unlike any other Colombian coffee had before.  The more it aged the less I got those deep, menthol-esque flavors which was sad, as they were so interesting.  The coffee as a whole presented itself strongly in every device I put it in, with some great flavors being articulated.   I imagine most of that was evidence of the care and process put into the bean back at Aranzazu, and too the consideration by George Howell to let it shine.  From all the hands that guided this cup to my table - I thank you. 

Co-host of the I Brew My Own Coffee Podcast and always has all the chocolate. I also love to play board games. Yea, let's go do that right now.